Few fashion labels have challenged the conventions of style, form, and identity as boldly as Comme des Garçons. Founded in Tokyo in 1969 by Rei Kawakubo, the brand began as a small fashion label and evolved into Comme Des Garcons a cultural force that redefined avant-garde fashion. With a legacy that spans more than five decades, Comme des Garçons has not only reshaped what fashion can be but also inspired generations of designers, artists, and creatives around the world. This blog explores the brand’s evolution, decade by decade, from its humble beginnings to its current status as one of fashion’s most revered and radical institutions.
The 1970s: The Birth of a Vision
Comme des Garçons officially launched in 1969, with Rei Kawakubo working as a freelance stylist in Tokyo. She began creating her own clothes under the label, which translates to “like the boys” in French. In 1973, Kawakubo established the company Comme des Garçons Co., Ltd. and began building a unique aesthetic that rebelled against the norms of traditional Japanese and Western fashion.
The late 1970s saw the opening of the first Comme des Garçons boutique in Tokyo, and the brand’s style quickly garnered attention for its monochromatic palette, unconventional silhouettes, and intellectual underpinnings. While Japan was still heavily influenced by Western fashion ideals, Kawakubo’s designs were rooted in asymmetry, raw edges, and a kind of refined dishevelment that positioned her work as a radical departure from mainstream clothing.
The 1980s: Disruption and Paris Debut
The 1980s were a defining era for Comme des Garçons. In 1981, Rei Kawakubo presented her first runway show in Paris, sending shockwaves through the European fashion elite. The debut collection featured black, tattered garments that many critics described as “Hiroshima chic” or “post-atomic.” While controversial, this collection introduced the West to a new kind of beauty—one that embraced imperfection, decay, and conceptualism.
Kawakubo’s shows throughout the 1980s were deeply artistic and often theatrical. She explored themes of deconstruction, gender fluidity, and abstraction. In 1983, she launched Comme des Garçons Homme, expanding the brand into menswear and introducing similar philosophies to men’s fashion. Throughout the decade, the label continued to challenge the rules of garment construction, with clothing that looked torn, unfinished, or inside-out.
Though some critics were baffled, others began to understand that Kawakubo was presenting more than fashion—she was presenting ideas, emotions, and provocations. The 1980s established her as a visionary and Comme des Garçons as a label unlike any other.
The 1990s: Expansion and Collaboration
In the 1990s, Comme des Garçons expanded both its reach and its vision. The brand opened more stores worldwide and introduced several sub-labels and collaborations. Kawakubo continued to explore fashion as a form of intellectual expression, but the 1990s also marked a period of strategic growth.
Perhaps one of the most significant developments of the decade was the introduction of Comme des Garçons Play, a more accessible and playful offshoot of the brand, which would later become immensely popular thanks in part to its iconic heart logo designed by artist Filip Pagowski. This marked Kawakubo’s attempt to reach broader audiences without compromising her avant-garde ethos.
During this time, Kawakubo also nurtured new talent, most notably Junya Watanabe, a protégé who launched his own label under the Comme des Garçons umbrella. Watanabe’s work fused technology, innovation, and classic tailoring, becoming a powerful extension of Kawakubo’s vision.
Comme des Garçons also became known for its unique retail spaces, designed with the same offbeat, conceptual flair as the clothing. The brand’s approach to retail was immersive and experiential, helping redefine the relationship between consumer and fashion brand.
The 2000s: Reinvention and Mainstream Influence
As the new millennium began, Comme des Garçons continued to reinvent itself while paradoxically gaining more mainstream attention. The early 2000s saw Rei Kawakubo push even further into conceptual territory, with collections that blurred the boundaries between sculpture and clothing.
One of the most talked-about collections of the decade was the 2005 “Broken Bride” collection, which explored themes of love, loss, and reconstruction. Models walked the runway in voluminous, distorted bridal gowns, creating a haunting, dreamlike atmosphere that blurred the lines between beauty and grotesque.
During this decade, Comme des Garçons also began high-profile collaborations with brands like H&M, Nike, and Louis Vuitton. These collaborations allowed Kawakubo’s philosophy to reach wider audiences while maintaining the brand’s integrity. The H&M collaboration in 2008, in particular, was a global sensation, further solidifying the brand’s dual identity as both niche and influential.
Kawakubo’s ability to maintain creative purity while navigating the demands of a global fashion economy was a testament to her unique leadership and vision.
The 2010s: Institutional Recognition and Cultural Reverence
In the 2010s, Comme des Garçons received unprecedented recognition from mainstream fashion institutions. In 2017, Rei Kawakubo became only the second living designer to be honored with a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. The exhibit, titled “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” celebrated her contributions not just to fashion but to culture and art at large.
The collections of this decade continued to break new ground. From “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” to “Blue Witches” and “18th-Century Punk,” Kawakubo used clothing as a medium for philosophical inquiry. The designs were not always wearable in a conventional sense, but they were deeply symbolic and thought-provoking.
Comme des Garçons also expanded its influence through Dover Street Market, a concept store founded by Kawakubo and her husband, Adrian Joffe. The stores in London, New York, Los Angeles, and other cities became hubs for cutting-edge fashion, showcasing Comme des Garçons and other experimental designers in a curated, gallery-like setting.
The 2020s: Legacy, Innovation, and the Future
As the world enters a new era marked by technological change, sustainability concerns, and evolving definitions of identity, Comme des Garçons remains at the forefront of innovation. Rei Kawakubo, now in her 80s, continues to design with unrelenting curiosity and fearlessness.
Recent collections have embraced themes of rebirth, resistance, and ambiguity—reflecting the social and political complexities of the times. Even as new designers and labels rise, Comme des Garçons retains its aura as a brand that is never trend-driven but always trend-defining.
Younger audiences have rediscovered the label Comme Des Garcons Hoodie through social media and collaborations, but the core philosophy remains the same: to challenge assumptions, provoke thought, and explore the endless possibilities of clothing.
Conclusion: More Than Fashion
The evolution of Comme des Garçons is not just a story of a fashion label but a journey of ideas. Rei Kawakubo has used clothing as a language to question, deconstruct, and rebuild our understanding of identity, beauty, and creativity. Each decade of Comme des Garçons is marked not by conformity or commerciality, but by courage—a refusal to follow and a relentless pursuit of something new.
In an industry that often chases trends, Comme des Garçons has carved out a space where fashion becomes art, resistance, and philosophy. Its evolution is not finished; rather, it continues to unfold with every collection, every concept, and every risk taken. And that is what makes it one of the most important fashion houses of our time.